Dinner last night – Open batting with strong G&Ts - taxi to old town – arrive in daylight at the Restaurant district in old town – looks seedy, unkempt, dirty, scary in the mid afternoon – comes alive at night – people everywhere- again a feeling of safety – police offer a fatherly presence.
North African hole in the wall – Couscous with chicken, cinnamon and sugar – multiple bottles of Matteus – rivals Valencia.
Head out of Lisbon on a quiet Sunday morning.
Fatima – an enigma for me – small groups of footsore pilgrims greet their supporter -thousands of people gather in the gigantic forecourt for mass –others wander the site – not many happy faces – contemplating? – puzzled? – not sure! - not as kitsch as expected – save one beggar not one request for money – no entry fee – no guide fee – it is actually a religious site! – I should not be surprised but I am!
Head out of Lisbon on a quiet Sunday morning.
Fatima – an enigma for me – small groups of footsore pilgrims greet their supporter -thousands of people gather in the gigantic forecourt for mass –others wander the site – not many happy faces – contemplating? – puzzled? – not sure! - not as kitsch as expected – save one beggar not one request for money – no entry fee – no guide fee – it is actually a religious site! – I should not be surprised but I am!
On to Coimbria – a real university town – goes back to the 1500’s when Universities were fostered by the Church –
We arrive in town on the students parade day – students take over the town– thousands of students – even more spectators -– hundreds of floats full of students in various states of inebriation handing out beer and goodies to spectators also in various states of inebriation. Spectators include parents, grandparents, sisters and brothers and the local community. Concierge at the shabby,” wantabe” “old Europe” hotel warns us the parade is on but “will not be bad – parents here” – pity the town when the parents are not here!.
Strangely, as the procession raucously and erratically rounds the statue of Pope John-Paul II he seems to be looking down approvingly – I wonder.
Students beautifully dressed – girls in black blazer and skirt cut Latin style and boys in black slacks, with three quarter, fitted, black coats. Both wore white shirts and ties and top hats in their faculty colours and carried canes.
The old university area of the town is perched on the top of a hill – a wide set of a hundred or so steps provides access from the “new” town square – the university is a combination of narrow streets, old residences, faculty buildings, squares and churches. All looks a little unkempt - might just be the crowds and litter of parade day. I feel uncomfortable here – a sense that there is a missed opportunity to honour the pursuit of learning that has occurred here over 500 years.
We wander home in the very early evening - up steep roads - through littered streets - we thread our way past swaying students and locals - we take care to avert our eyes as we pass through a park where trees are in the process of being dosed with ammonia – I trust today is not the finest day in the University calendar.
The old university area of the town is perched on the top of a hill – a wide set of a hundred or so steps provides access from the “new” town square – the university is a combination of narrow streets, old residences, faculty buildings, squares and churches. All looks a little unkempt - might just be the crowds and litter of parade day. I feel uncomfortable here – a sense that there is a missed opportunity to honour the pursuit of learning that has occurred here over 500 years.
We wander home in the very early evening - up steep roads - through littered streets - we thread our way past swaying students and locals - we take care to avert our eyes as we pass through a park where trees are in the process of being dosed with ammonia – I trust today is not the finest day in the University calendar.
Ah Portuguese food – perhaps that will save the day – There is no fool like an old fool - Michael you should know by now that in Portugal cities you eat ex-Pat food. Tonight amongst four we endured murdered baby beef and a bean and pork combination made tolerable by side servings of fried banana, orange slices, a local cabbage and rice. Without the side servings our tempers would have tested the lovely warm feelings created by the two bottles of chilled Portuguese Mateus.
Bernie was NOT impressed!
An education!.
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